Christian Core (born 5 October 1974) is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an boulder, , in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the Bouldering World Cup twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the Bouldering World Championship in 2003.
Climbing career
Competition climbing
In 1999 Core stopped competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and started participating in the Bouldering World Cup, organized by
UIAA in that year for the first time in history.
He immediately won the Cup, and again in 2002.
In 2003, he earned the title of World Champion in bouldering.
Bouldering
He has ascended several very hard boulders in Italy near
Bobbio Pellice,
Varazze, and
Triora. In 2008, he climbed
, the first-ever boulder graded in history, and was for 8 years, the most difficult boulder in the world. In 2011,
Adam Ondra repeated the ascent and confirmed the grade,
however, in 2015, Core announced that a hold broke on
Gioia, which he could only partially repair, and which slightly lowered the grade.
Personal life
In 2009, he married the climber Stella Marchisio.
Rankings
Climbing World Cup
|
| Bouldering | 1 | 8 | 7 | 1 | 8 | 16 | 4 | 4 | 13 | 16 | 54 | 26 | 54 | 32 |
Climbing World Championships
|
| Lead | 7 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Bouldering | - | - | 3 | 1 | 18 | 10 | 10 | 33 |
Climbing European Championships
|
| Lead | 10 | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Bouldering | - | - | 1 | - | 16 | 10 | 7 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Bouldering
Rock climbing
Redpointed routes
Core redpointed and
routes.
Boulder problems
Core redpointed and flashed boulder problems.
8C+/V16:
- * – Varazze (Italy) – 2008 – First ascent.
8C/V15:
- * Kimera – Rifugio Barbara (Bobbio Pellice, Italy) – 2006 – First ascent
8B+/V14:
- * Toky – Val Ellero (Italy) – 2009 – First ascent
- * New Base Line – Magic Wood (Switzerland) – 2006
- * Beautiful mind – Albarracin (Spain) – 2006 – First ascent
- * Ajna – Varazze (Italy) – 2004 – First ascent
- * Toguro – Varazze (ITA) – 2003 – First ascent
- * Dreamtime – Cresciano (Switzerland) – 2003 – Fifth ascent (first ascent by Fred Nicole)
- * Taklimakam plus – Varazze (Italy) – 2002 – First ascent
- * Shadowfax – Chironico (Switzerland) – 2002 – Third ascent (first ascent by Dave Graham)
Film
-
i Core, my climbing family – 2012 – Regia di Angelo Poli – 45'
See also
-
List of grade milestones in rock climbing
-
History of rock climbing
-
Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
Bibliografia
External links
